July 2015 -- Cuba
I had a week free during my summer sojourn to North America for conference season, so I decided to see how Cuba is doing these days.
Of course, everyone is talking about the prospect of the USA dropping the decades-long embargo. Although there is no small amount of resentment, most Cubans view the "normalization of relations" to be a good thing. Although trade (and tourism) has continued with Europe and Canada since the floor fell out in 1991, there is simply a shortage of international trade in a country that is moving toward liberal market reforms.
I started my trip in the old city of Havana, where I stayed at a casa particular (similar to a bed and breakfast, typically USD 20-30 per night) for three nights. This was a great launching-off point to explore the city: el Malecon, the boardwalk roadway; the famous haunts of Hemmingway; the bustling squares; and the vibrant cafes. I especially enjoyed talking with a man who operates a century-old camera in Parque Central. Other highlights included the old (not antique) American cars, the mojitos, and the omnipresent music.
From Havana, I traveled with Viazul, a foreigner-friendly bus service to Playa Larga, a tiny town about 150 km to the south of the capital. Playa Larga is at the northern end of the famous Bay of Pigs, and was the site of a secondary invasion (the main fighting took place down the coast at Playa Giron) in 1961. The area is bordered on the west by the nearly-impenetrable Cienaga de Zapata, a large saltwater swamp, that is home to dozens of species of birds. In winter, it is a nesting ground for migratory flamingos; the spring is mating season for the world's smallest hummingbird. During the summer, however, a few species were on show, including a species of non-migratory flamingo (barely discernible in the image below).
Cuba is too hot during the summer. I loved visiting, and would love to go back. For now, it is an affordable destination, and safe enough that there is no need to barricade oneself in an all-inclusive resort. The people are friendly and kind, and will often stop you on the street just to chat (and not, as in most places, to try to make a quick buck off a tourist). Cuba is a country worth visiting, and enjoying.
Practical notes: a Visa credit card will work in the ATMs at banks in Havana, but American cards will not (and neither will MasterCard, or others). It's best to bring cash (Euros or Canadian Dollars) to exchange at good rates. There is essentially no internet connectivity available, but you can send pricy SMS text messages abroad in a pinch. There is a good app called Cuba Junky that has (offline) contact information for hundreds of Casa Particulars around the island; try to download some offline maps, too.
