April 2014 -- Scotland
I decided to spend my spring break hiking the West Highland Way in the Scottish Highlands.
The Way is a 160 kilometre (95 mile) trek that begins in the outskirts of Glasgow and drags itself wearily into the town of Fort William. A multitude of accommodation options along the way (or camping restrictions) allow the hike to be broken up a number of different ways. My guide book suggests 8 days, the website proposes 6 to 7 days, and the standard "fast" itinerary is 5 days: I did it in 4. Most people hike from the south to the north, but I passed a few people each day going the opposite direction. The popularity of the trail makes it pretty easy to follow, even without a guidebook. The route markers (below) are well-located.
Here's a brief description of the walk. You start in Milngavie, a suburb of Glasgow, and follow municipal parks for a bit, then walk through a woodlot (the first of many) en route to Conic Hill, which offers the first view of Loch Lomond (below). A significant portion of the way is spent on the east bank of that Loch, which is Scotland's largest freshwater reservoir. For the most part, this means level walking, but there are sections where scampering up and down lakeside boulders is required.
Past the lake, the trail follows a beautiful river to Crainlarich, the midpoint of the hike. From here, it's miles of farmland through Tyndrum (home of the excellent Green Welly shop) to sleepy Bridge of Orchy.
Beyond Bridge of Orchy, two things change. First, the way diverges from the railway line. Second, the terrain becomes more hilly and challenging. The result is a splendid feeling of isolation in places like the lonely valley of Coireach 'a Ba and the high pass of Lairig Mor. The valley of Glen Coe is home to the picturesque King's House Hotel and the impressive Buachaille Etive Mor.
A number of groups have made an effort to bring the Way to life by placing informative plates about the history of the region. One pond is supposed to hold the sword of Robert the Bruce, while the following valley was an important site during the conflict between the Campbell and MacDonald clans in addition to being the home of the legendary King MacBeth (whose castle was located on the tiny island in the middle of the picture).
Fortunately, the Way meets the train line again in Fort William, allowing for a speedy and comfortable ride back to Glasgow.
